Villages of Ibiza

Zip through an Ibiza village on your scooter and you'd think there was nothing there to see. You'd be right because experiencing Ibiza's villages is all about atmosphere - chill out with a cold beer, mooch about the backstreets and explore.

The ancient village of Balafia is worth a look. Founded by the Moors, who named it 'Good Water' after the nearby spring, it's reached via a track behind Sant Lorenzo church and past Can Pere Masson, a finca [farmhouse] with a defensive tower and Roman olive press used as a water trough.

Santa Gertrudis, the arty centre of the island, has been slightly marred by a minor sprawl of development but there are far worse places to hang out than its mellow square.

District capitals Sant Miquel (San Miguel)and up market Sant Josep (San José) are minor-towns in their own right, as is Sant Rafel, a centre for ceramics and posh restaurants, while the smaller district centre of Sant Joan offers sleepy backstreets and a giggle at the tie-dye and crystals of the shop ECO. Sant Mateu, Sant Agnes and Sant Carles (San Carlos)are just a cluster of houses around a church, but they're seriously chilled and worth a beer stop. As is the sweet village of Sant Augustí. Perched on a low hill and bypassed by tourists, its rustic fincas, church, bar and gallery feel a world away from San Antonio's bustle.

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